Etat Libre d'Orange: Rien
If you’ve ever stepped into an old cathedral during a high mass, Rien by Etat Libre d’Orange might feel familiar. This is an incense-heavy fragrance with a ritualistic, almost sacred quality dark, smoky, and slightly mossy. It’s got that distinctive burnt-resin depth that leans more towards a bitter, almost leathery smokiness rather than the sweeter, more meditative side of incense.
Projection: Moderate
Longevity: Moderate to long
The Scent
Rien is unapologetically smoky, almost harshly so. It carries a bitterness that borders on acrid, with an almost leathery nuance lurking beneath the heavy incense. If you love stark, atmospheric fragrances, the opening will grab your attention.
The smokiness remains on the skin, as does a faint leather undertone, but the bitterness takes a step back. Instead, a cleaner, slightly peppery floral accord starts to creep in—vaguely aldehydic, vaguely spiced, but never distinct enough to latch onto. This phase feels more abstract, like a blurred blend of black pepper, florals, and whatever synthetic magic Etat Libre d’Orange has thrown into the mix.
The Notes
Leather, Incense, Aldehydes, Styrax, Patchouli,
Oakmoss, Amber, Labdanum, Iris, Cumin, Black Pepper, Rose
The problem? That bold, dramatic opening starts to unravel. What began as a commanding, resinous statement scent slowly dissolves into something mushy—not bad, just… indecisive. The final stretch leaves behind remnants of its smoky bitterness, but it loses the structure that made the opening so intriguing. It doesn’t fade fast (it sticks around for hours), but what remains is a bit of a shapeless haze rather than a well-defined dry down.
Who is this for?
Rien is best suited for those who love bold, smoky leather scents but don’t necessarily need them to stay linear. If you appreciate the idea of incense and leather with a slightly bitter edge, it’s worth testing. But if you want a fragrance that holds onto its initial impact and develops with clarity, this one might frustrate you.
It’s atmospheric, even theatrical in its opening, but as it settles, it loses some of that sharp, dramatic focus. You might find yourself craving the intensity of the first hour long after it’s faded into something softer and less distinct.
Final Thoughts
Rien is intriguing, but it feels like a fragrance with commitment issues. The opening is striking—ritualistic incense, bitter smoke, a whisper of leather—but as it evolves, it struggles to maintain that identity. What you’re left with is a soft, peppery floral smokiness that lingers for hours but lacks the boldness that made the introduction so compelling.
It’s still a solid fragrance, and for fans of smoky, resinous scents, it’s worth a try. Just don’t expect it to hold onto its initial intensity for too long.
