For the love of Oud
Oud is one of the most polarising notes in perfumery. It is bold, intense, and guaranteed to provoke a reaction. Its rich, woody aroma can transport you to a place of meditative calm or leave you questioning your life choices, depending on how it hits your nose. For some, it is pure opulence and depth, a sensory experience that feels almost sacred. For others, it’s an unapologetic punch of earthiness they’d rather avoid. Love it or not, oud refuses to be ignored.
What is Oud, and Why Does it Smell Like That?
Oud and agarwood are terms that are often used interchangeably, but they’re not quite the same thing. Agarwood refers to the resin-embedded wood from Aquilaria trees, while oud (or oudh) is the essential oil that is distilled from this resin. Essentially, oud is what you get when agarwood is processed to extract its fragrant essence.
Here’s how it works: agarwood forms when an Aquilaria tree is infected with a specific type of mould. As a defence mechanism, the tree produces a dark, resinous substance that gradually permeates the heartwood. Over time, this resin-rich wood becomes highly aromatic and is harvested for its incredible scent.
When distilled, the resin yields oud oil, often called “liquid gold” due to its rarity and value. Natural oud has an intensely complex profile, it can be earthy, woody, smoky, sweet, or animalic, depending on the tree species, the region it’s grown in, and the distillation process. This variability is part of what makes oud so fascinating and coveted in perfumery.
While natural oud is loved for its depth and richness, it’s also extremely rare and expensive. As a result, synthetic ouds have become popular,, offering a more accessible alternative while still capturing the essence of this iconic note.
A History of Oud in Fragrance
Oud’s history stretches back thousands of years. Its use is documented in ancient texts and traditions, particularly in the Middle East and South Asia, where it has been burned as incense in spiritual rituals, used to scent clothing, and even traded as a valuable commodity.
In the world of perfumery, oud was traditionally reserved for the East, where its bold character was celebrated. However, in recent decades, Western perfumers have embraced oud, often reimagining it to appeal to modern tastes. From niche houses to designer brands, oud is a staple note in countless compositions, proving its versatility and enduring appeal.
The Complexity of Oud
Oud’s complexity lies in its ability to convey opposing qualities: it can be rich yet airy, grounding yet ethereal, comforting yet provocative. Its unique profile means it often forms the backbone of a fragrance, lending depth and gravitas to the composition.
But not all ouds are created equally. Natural oud oil varies depending on the tree, the region, and the distillation process, as well as whether or not it is synthetic.
Oud in Modern Perfumery
In the hands of skilled perfumers, oud becomes a canvas for innovation. Here are some standout examples:
Innovative Oud Scents
Maison Francis Kurkdjian Oud Satin Mood: A velvety, luxurious take on oud with rose and vanilla, perfect for those new to the note.
Tom Ford Oud Wood: A modern, clean oud paired with spices and woods, making it approachable yet sophisticated.
Classic Oud-Heavy Scents
Amouage Interlude Man: A smoky, resinous powerhouse that showcases oud’s darker, more mysterious side.
Montale Black Aoud: A Middle Eastern-inspired blend of oud and rose, rich and unapologetically bold.
For the Oud Explorer
If you’re new to oud and want to dip your toes in without being overwhelmed, here are some accessible options:
Versace Oud Noir: A subtle introduction with warm spices and leather.
Initio Oud for Greatness: A refined, balanced oud that feels luxurious but not overbearing.
For the Oud Aficionado
If already know that you can’t get enough of oud’s complexity and want something richer, try these:
Dior Oud Ispahan: A classic oud and rose combination with a smoky, resinous base.
Roja Parfums Amber Aoud: An opulent, multi-layered masterpiece with oud at its heart.
The Final Note
Oud is a note that sparks some of the strongest opinions in the world of fragrance. Its depth, history, and complexity make it a favourite among those who see perfumery as an art form, though its bold character can take time to truly appreciate.
Whether you’re just beginning your oud journey or you’ve long been captivated by its allure, there’s always more to explore and uncover. So dive in, let your senses guide you, and discover the endless stories that oud has to tell, because in the world of fragrance, few notes are as unforgettable.
